Card Targets

Card targets come in various shapes and numbers of bulls, also to add confusion just for me people mark the scores in different ways as well. Most ranges score so that if the hole the bullet made in the card is breaking a line, the bullet is considered to be inside the ring/bull. Some do not count it as in unless the entire hole is inside the ring. Another variation is that normally you get 4 points for missing the bull, even if you don't hit the card! However some ranges may count this as a 0 or 1, the bull would be 5 points, the next ring 4 points, the next ring 3 points and so on. Behind the targets will normal a steel plate leaning forward over a tray, this will deflect the bullets down into the tray.

On the Left is a Tin Hat Target with a 3/4 inch Bull and a 2 inch Outer ring. This 5 target type of card is normally used on a tube range at a distance of around 15 yards. The top left target is shot at first as sighters, these do not count towards the score. Some ranges specify what order the rest of the bulls should be shot at and some don't!

The target on the right, in case you didn't notice, is a single bull! These are used on prone ranges. There are two cards next to each other. Two shots are shot into one card as your sighters, you then change to the other card and shoot your remaining 7 shots. The card shown is my first, and probably best, prone target!

Plate Targets
Unfortunately a photo would not show the workings so we'll attempt a diagram. This diagram shows the 'plate box' from the side with no sides. The front of the box that is the target is on the right of the diagram. All the black bits are thick strong steel. The cyan bit marks the bull, it is actually a hole in the steel plate, the smallest one in the league is only 2/5 inch in diameter. The green part is a removable tray which is filled with white wash. Purple shows the roller and cable, the string goes back via pulleys to the firing point. When pulled it will move out of the white wash box and travel up the plate, removing any lead (from misses) from the plate and give it a coat of white wash. If the bullet passes through the bull hole it wll strike the 'clanger' directly behind the hole. The whole clanger assembly will then pivot (dark blue) and activate an electrical switch (shown in yellow) this will set of a bell or buzzer back at the firing point.

This is the tricky bit. With the image on the right imagine that the blue circle is the bull. The red post is the front sight on the end of the barrel, the black bit represents the rear sight. The idea is to line them all up as shown and gently squeeze the trigger. Focusing is the main problem as the bull may 25 yards away and the rear sight is only inches from you eye. The small gap between the red and blue should be, and I quote, "No more than the thickness of a fag paper"!

The Ranges

Tube Ranges:
Below is a picture of the tube range in George and Dragon. The layout is basically to knock a hole in the wall of the pub, run a 15 yard tube down the garden into a small shed, put a plate or card target in the shed. The tube below has a plate target. In the top left you can see the cord and handle for the brush, also you can see the bell and buzzer.

Open Ranges:
Below is a picture of an open range. It speaks for itself really. The range shown can have up to 4 people shooting at once, in a match it would only be 2 at a time. You can make out the cards at the end, there were 7 up when I took the photo. You might also notice the sand bags, one has a bolt action rifle resting on it, these are only used to keep the gun steady when zeroing the sights in - they are not used during matches.